Journey to the CATWALK
Four young designers who showcased their collections
at Elle Fashion Week reveal what it took to get there
Story by SAMILA SUTTISILTUM
Pictures by TOON AKKANIBUT
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Know these words and phrases
content
being happy and satisfied
launch
to make a product available to the public for the first time; debut
minimal
using very simple ideas or a small number of simple things
chic
very fashionable and elegant
vintage
typical of a period in the past
geometric
using regular shapes (circles, squares, stars, etc) and lines
high-end
expensive
showcase (v)
to provide a place to show someone’s abilities
funky
unusual and fashionable
hip
fashionable
haute-couture
the design and production of expensive and fashionable clothes
avant-garde
new and very modern
unwarranted
not reasonable or necessary
deprived
without
abnormal
different from what is usual or expected
beamed
smiled happily
affirmative
positive
indie
(from independent) popular and produced by small companies or individuals
tousled
untidy
dictated
told what to do
acknowledge
to show that you have noticed
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It has already been two weeks since the curtain fell on Elle Bangkok Fashion Week 2003. Yet the event is still the talk of the town, as much for the trail of stunning outfits as for the unwarranted sensation over exposed breasts.
In light of the government's campaign to promote Bangkok as a fashion hub, not enough space in local papers has been devoted to insightful discussion about the designers, many of whom struggled to get their collections to the catwalk. This is especially true of the young designers, whose dedication to the show included months of preparation; several transcontinental flights for research and inspiration; innumerable visits to museums, libraries and catwalks; sifting through piles of reference books; and spending sleepless-deprived nights at sewing machines.
Outlook caught up with four of these creative people (only one of them is presented here) who made their mark as Young Designers at fashion week to find out what went on behind the scenes.
THAWEESAK SAMANMIT
AB-NORMAL
Thaweesak Samanmit, the only designer of Ab-Normal is, well, a bit abnormal (in a good way). First, he is a science graduate from Mahidol University. Second, he insists on locating his little shop in a tiny dark corner under the almost forgotten Siam Cinema in Siam Square. Third, despite awards from Asia Collection Makuhari Grand Prix, Asia Designers Fashion Showcase and Thailand Fashion Designer Award on his résumé, he still enjoys designing high school cheerleaders' outfits and advertising campaign women's uniforms.
“All designers want to do shows,” he beamed with an affirmative tone. “But if I had to choose, living life the way I am now — making a living by making clothes — is enough happiness. I never wanted fame. I don't want to be put up high and later fall down. I only want to stay where I am and remain in this position on and on.”
At a first glance, Thaweesak perfectly fits the part of an art school indie kid with his tousled long hair, thin frame and tanned skin. However, he spent nearly a decade studying mathematics and science to become a doctor or a scientist — something he never had a passion for — simply because social values dictated that lifestyle.
But as soon as he left university, he enrolled in a weekend programme at Taxila Fashion School while working weekdays. No sooner had he completed the programme and a pattern-making course did he decide it was the time he listened to his heart. “I quit my job straightaway,” he said with a laugh.
Thaweesak's work experience included a design position for two clothing lines owned by Robinson Department Store where he learned a great deal about design, production, stock and marketing. When he launched his own brand, he had gained enough first-hand experience to help Ab-Normal remain the top brand in mid-priced markets for over five years.
Although he acknowledges trends, Thaweesak always makes sure what he designs is distinctly Ab-Normal with characteristics he describes as minimal, plain and chic.
“I really love to play with colours,” said Thaweesak. “At the beginning, we only did earth tones. Later, we launched a vintage line and more colours wree added, but they were not by any means bright colours. They are more like muddy pink and muddy yellow, and this will remain the character of Ab-Normal in the future.”
It was this minimalist geometric chic that he showcased at Elle Bangkok Fashion Week. He revealed that his challenge was how to put these geometric forms and stripes on cloth and make it interesting.
“I don't want to make beautiful cloth from already-beautiful materials,” he said. “My thing is about making a nice outfit from an ordinary-looking piece of fabric like plain cotton. It's a lot more challenging.”
After the success of his debut show, is there anything that this humble guy still feels he wants to achieve?
“I'm thinking about opening another shop in Siam Centre that deals with more of a medium- to high-end market,” said Thaweesak. “It will be like the stuff I did for the show. The quantity produced will be lower so the price will be higher. That's probably my highest aim. I want nothing more.”
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